Lampropeltis sp. Husbandry
According to Class Reptilia
Before we discuss ways in which animals within the genus Lampropeltis (kingsnakes and milksnakes) are cared for, you must understand this is only one account of the many successful husbandry practices. Our captive care is a result of years of experience, research, and collaboration with many other reptile breeders. This is what works for us. When in doubt, think about where your animal comes from. Remember, your snake was (and remains to be) specifically adapted to a habitat and niche within a broader geographic region and ecosystem.
Enclosure (temperature, cage, substrate...)
For the most part, these new world snakes come from an arid temperate climate offered by the mid to southern states of the U. S. and Mexico. The summers are relatively warm and winters are cool. What does this mean? We are looking for an enclosure with good ventilation and relatively low humidity. These are not tropical snakes. If you treat them as such, expect respiratory and dermis-type infections and ultimate demise. During the warm period (mock spring, summer, and fall), a thermogradient of about 76 to 88 degrees should exist on opposing ends of your enclosure. Many baby snake rooms are kept between 82 and 84 degrees. Heating pads or heat tape may be used to provide the warmer temperatures of your snake's home. Heating pads may need to be thermoregulated by means of a rheostat due to the extreme temperatures they produce. Creating an environment which allows the snake to thermoregulate is optimal. Again, think about what these snakes do in the wild. Snakes are in constant movement from basking areas and shelter depending on their energy requirements.
Kingsnakes and Milksnakes should be housed individually, or at least while they're hatchlings and juveniles. This allows for accurate record keeping and prevention of feeding accidents (eating of other cage mates). Never feed animals in the same enclosure unless they are safely isolated! In deciding upon the appropriate home for your snake, please keep in mind these snakes are escape artists and will escape if you provide them the opportunity. Most pet enthusiasts (those without large scale aspirations) choose to house their snakes in glass terrariums with sliding screen tops. These set-ups provide adequate ventilation and clear visibility of your pet snake. Vision, Neodesha Plastics and other private caging manufacturers make fine herp enclosures. Regardless of your choice, you should always provide a hide of some sort. It can be as simple as a folded up piece of paper or an elaborate hide which can be purchased at most full-line pet stores. Below, you will find ways in which Class Reptila maintains its colubrids.
Large Scale Housing of Neonates (Hatchlings/Babies)
Our neonates are kept in clear plastic shoe boxes measuring approximately 3 1/2" x 7" x12" with one-eighth inch holes drilled along the sides. The number of holes is up to you. Remember, these animals have low humidity requirements and should have good ventilation. Think about where you live; if you live in a dry climate, you may drill fewer holes than those living in humid areas. If the holes are much larger, neonates may rub off their rostral (nose) scales in efforts to escape. Each of our baby racks hold 43 shoe boxes and there is 3" heat tape running along each shelf within the rack to provide each enclosure with a thermogradient. The heat tape is thermostatically controlled at a constant 85 degrees. The cooler end of the enclosure fluctuates between 78 to 80 degrees. The top of the plastic shoe boxes are secured by the shelf above within the rack system. An 8 oz. deli cup with a small hole cut out of the top is used as a water dish and a folded up piece of paper is used as hide within each enclosure. Aspen is our substrate (bedding) of choice, but hardwood chips are also very effective in the safe captive care of neonates. Both are highly absorbent and relatively safe if ingested.
Large Scale Housing of Juveniles, Subadults and Adults
Subadult and adult snakes are housed in opaque 32 quart Sterlite containers and are also placed within a rack system with 3" and 4" heat tape running along the backside. The top of each enclosure is actually the above shelf of the rack itself. A similar thermogradient to the baby snakes is offered, but the cooler end of the enclosure fluctuates between 76 and 80 degrees. Juveniles are often housed in 15 quart Sterlite containers before they are introduced into the 32 quart containers. The height of of these containers are similar, thus allowing for them to be interspersed within the rack system. Both the 15 and 32 quart containers have three-sixteenth holes drilled along the sides to provide adequate ventilation (see Large Scale Housing of Neonates for appropriate ventilation). These snakes are timid, secretive animals and prefer to feel secure within their home. Introducing juvenile snakes into large containers often stresses them out. Hides, water dishes, and substrate for juveniles are similar to the set-up for the neonates within the plastic shoe boxes. Subadults and adults have similar water dishes, but they have graduated to 16 oz. deli cups. High quality pine shavings are introduced to subadults and adults. The chances of impaction due to ingestion is greatly reduced and it's more affordable than aspen and hardwood chips in such large containers.
Feeding (coming soon)
Breeding (coming soon)
Links
Grey-Banded Kingsnakes- www.kingsnake.com/alterna/
The Kingsnake and Milk Snake Page- www.kingsnake.com/king/
