Boidae Husbandry
(ovulation of a Ronne Pastel Colombian Boa)
According to Class Reptilia
Before we discuss ways in which animals of species Boa constrictor are cared for, you must understand this is only one account of the many successful husbandry practices. Our captive care is a result of years of experience, research, and collaboration with many other reptile breeders. This is what works for us. When in doubt, think about where your animal comes from. Remember, your snake was (and remains to be) specifically adapted to a habitat and niche within a broader geographic region and ecosystem.
(map of South America)
Enclosure (temperature, cage, substrate...)
Boa constrictors come from a tropical climate offered by countries ranging from southern Mexico to central portions of South America. For the most part, seasons are hardly differentiated. On average, temperatures range from 70 to 90 degrees depending on the time of year and region of these equatorial countries. What does this mean? We are looking for an enclosure with moderate temperatures and adequate ventilation where high humidity can be achieved. While boas are young or off season, a thermogradient of about 82 to 96 degrees should exist on opposing ends of your enclosure. Heating pads or heat tape may be used to provide the warmer temperatures of your snake's home. Heating pads may need to be thermoregulated by means of a rheostat due to the extreme temperatures they produce. Creating an environment which allows the snake to thermoregulate is optimal. Again, think about what these snakes do in the wild. Snakes are in constant movement from basking areas and shelter depending on their energy requirements.
Boas should be housed individually, or at least until they have reached adult proportions. This allows for accurate record keeping and prevention of feeding accidents (eating of other cage mates). Never feed animals in the same enclosure unless they are safely isolated! In deciding upon the appropriate home for your snake, please keep in mind these snakes will escape if you provide them the opportunity. Most pet enthusiasts (those without large scale aspirations) choose to house their snakes in glass terrariums with sliding screen tops. These set-ups may be attractive and provide excellent ventilation, but maintaining the relatively high humidity required of your pet is sometimes difficult. In these types of enclosures, it is best to offer a soaking bowl or routinely spray down your snake's home to prevent dehydration, constipation, and/or shedding problems. Vision, Neodesha Plastics and other private caging manufacturers make fine herp enclosures. Below, you will find ways in which Class Reptila maintains its boas.
Large Scale Housing of Neonates (Babies)
Our neonates are individually housed in clear plastic shoe boxes and shelved in large rack systems. One-eighth inch holes are drilled along the ends of each shoe box to provide the ventilation and humidity required by them. Please keep in mind, it's difficult to maintain high humidity levels with numerous ventilation holes. Think about where you live; if you live in a dry climate, you may drill fewer holes than those living in humid areas. Each baby rack holds 50 shoe boxes and there is 3" heat tape running along each shelf within the rack to provide the appropriate thermogradient for each enclosure. The heat tape is maintained at approximately 96 degrees. The cooler end of the shoe box fluctuates between 82 to 84 degrees. The top of each enclosure is actually the shelf above within the rack itself. An 8 oz. deli cup with a hole cut out of the top is used as a water dish within each enclosure. The first couple months of the animal's life paper towels are used as the substrate (bedding) and is subsequently substituted with aspen shavings. Though it's relatively safe for animals to ingest some of the substrate, I take all precautions to prevent them from doing so.
Large Scale Housing of Juveniles
Juveniles are housed in opaque 32 quart Sterlite containers and are also placed within a rack system with 4" heat tape running along the backside. As mentioned earlier, the top of each container is the shelf above. The thermogradient described for the neonates is also offered to the juveniles. The Sterlite containers have three-sixteenth holes drilled along the ends to provide appropriate ventilation and humidity (see Large Scale Housing of Neonates). Water is supplied in heavy stone or ceramic crocks and pine shavings are used as the substrate. The chance of impaction due to the ingestion of pine shavings is greatly reduced at this juncture and more affordable than aspen. I intermittently mist the inside of each container to prevent shedding problems.
Large Scale Housing of Subadults and Adults
Feeding (coming soon)
Breeding
The Off Season (after Boas drop)
1) The female boas are heavily fed to reach optimal weight before courting.
2) Heat tape is turned off with day and night temperatures of 85o-87oF and 82o-85oF, respectively.
Courtship Period (Late October to April)
1) Males and females are taken off feed in September and October, respectively, to induce courtship.
2) Day and night temperatures of 82oF and 72oF, respectively, are kept. Heat tape may be used 12 hours on and 12 hours off if desired.
3) Introduce moist cypress mulch at the end of November, or beginning of December.
4) Heavy courting and breeding occurs during this period. The female will appear swelled when follicles are developing. It is suggested to maintain high relative humidity’s inside the enclosure- this is achieved by using the cypress mulch and frequent misting.
5) Males and females may be fed to retain weight and induce ovulation (beginning in February), respectively.
6) The female will appear as if she had swallowed a football when she finally ovulates (the swelling becomes more centralized). A female whom has ovulated tends to refuse food and be darker in color. The post-ovulation shed (P.O.S.) is often longer than normal shedding periods.
Post Ovulation
1) The male is removed and is put back on feed.
2)
The
3) The heat tape is set at 90o-95oF to provide a basking area for proper development of the babies.
4) The ambient temperatures are the low 80o’s during the day and about 75oF at night.
5) The gravid female can be fed intermittently to maintain weight if desired (and if she chooses to eat).
6) A tub with moist paper towels is set in the enclosure just prior to parturition. The expected date is approximately 105 days after the post-ovulation shed.
7) The babies are removed from the female.
Neonate Boas
1) Boas are placed in individual containers with paper towels as a substrate until their first shed.
2) Their first meals are offered after their first shed.
3) Typical boa husbandry is maintained after first shed.
Links
Columbian Red-Tail Boa Morphs- www.kingsnake.com/boamorphs/
Rosy Boas- www.rosyboa.com
